1983:
Did my first roped climb, Studl
Grat on Gross Glockner, Austria's highest peak. It was long,
exposed and about 5.3. I was 20 and on a rare vacation with
my dad, when he hired a guide to take me on that climb. Amazing
day and pivotal in my life.
For a short story of the very beginning,
go here
1984:
Fully absorbed by this exciting
new activity, but narrowly escaping disaster after disaster.
1985:
Got into winter mountaineering
with an unsafe level of experience. Ignorantly climbing on
the edge.
1986:
Accident year. Three helicopter
rescues involving both friends and myself. Furthermore many
nasty close calls and bad luck flavored most of the high alpine
routes attempted in 1986. This year alone could support a
website, but instead I wrote a
short story.
1987:
Big summer in the Alps. Finally
felt like a mature climber with decent capabilities, and climbed
as such. Did scores of fine, long routes on the high peaks.
1988:
One of my most diverse and exciting
climbing years. Started with 4 months in Chamonix as a ski
but mostly climbing bum. After a short stint in Denmark to
make some money, it was back to Cham for the summer. In early
October we left for the Himalayas and Ama
Dablam and early winter was spent in France and Spain,
cragging on limestone. Home in Denmark for a mere 2 months
total.
1989:
The big USA year. Worked nonstop
all winter before leaving Denmark in late February and returning
home in October. Climbed just about every day in between,
on the most epic road trip I've ever been on. Christmas was
spent in Poland bagging scary winter routes in the Tatras.
1990:
Nothing truly new and enlightened
happened with my climbing, but the activity level was as high
as ever, with El Cap, Chamonix and Nepal on the program.
1991:
Same as 90. Again did five hundred
or so pitches.
1992:
Moved to America. A turbulent
and distracting love affair accompanied by various overuse
injuries slowed my climbing a bit, but not enough.
1993:
Climbing came to a grinding halt
early this year after a botched recovery following knee surgery.
Ah, the virtues of patience...Living in Seattle and environs.
1994:
Barely touched rock. But did a
cool 56 day solo sailing trip in a 14' West Wright Potter
off the west coast of Canada, mostly as a result of a painful
breakup with a woman.
1995:
Got back into the groove after
coming to terms with the aches and pains in my body. Moved
to Moab late in the year.
1996:
This year the interest in climbing
again vaned after thrashing up Indian Creek splitters for
the past 10 months. Just
not enough variation to keep the spark.
1997:
No climbing.
1998:
No climbing.
1999:
Moved from Moabs monotonous lasercut
cracks to Bishop and immidiately got the passion again.
2000:
On the rocks regularly, but after
getting a kid and a mortgage I'm faced with another one of
lifes great challenges: Mainstream (family) obligations.
I reluctantly acknowledged that the travelling climbing exsistence
of bygone years might be off for a forseeable future.
2001:
Weekend warrior struggling with
the fact that the bi weekly cragging or peakbagging outing
is the extent of my adventuring.
2002:
As 2001.
2003:
As 2002.
2004:
Finally managed a high level of
climbing activity (even for a dad in the forties) with numerous
backcountry climbs in addition to weekly cragging. Back to
peak shape, which is 5.9, with the occasional ten lead. This
renewed zest was the motivation for creating fivenineclimber.
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