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Last
update:
April,
2008

WARNING


Rock
crag list

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yosemite
joshua tree
tahquitz
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pasayten



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1983:
Did my first roped climb, Studl Grat on Gross Glockner, Austria's highest peak. It was long, exposed and about 5.3. I was 20 and on a rare vacation with my dad, when he hired a guide to take me on that climb. Amazing day and pivotal in my life.
For a short story of the very beginning,
go here

1984:
Fully absorbed by this exciting new activity, but narrowly escaping disaster after disaster.

1985:
Got into winter mountaineering with an unsafe level of experience. Ignorantly climbing on the edge.

1986:
Accident year. Three helicopter rescues involving both friends and myself. Furthermore many nasty close calls and bad luck flavored most of the high alpine routes attempted in 1986. This year alone could support a website, but instead I wrote a
short story
.

1987:
Big summer in the Alps. Finally felt like a mature climber with decent capabilities, and climbed as such. Did scores of fine, long routes on the high peaks.

1988:
One of my most diverse and exciting climbing years. Started with 4 months in Chamonix as a ski but mostly climbing bum. After a short stint in Denmark to make some money, it was back to Cham for the summer. In early October we left for the Himalayas and Ama Dablam and early winter was spent in France and Spain, cragging on limestone. Home in Denmark for a mere 2 months total.

1989:
The big USA year. Worked nonstop all winter before leaving Denmark in late February and returning home in October. Climbed just about every day in between, on the most epic road trip I've ever been on. Christmas was spent in Poland bagging scary winter routes in the Tatras.

1990:
Nothing truly new and enlightened happened with my climbing, but the activity level was as high as ever, with El Cap, Chamonix and Nepal on the program.

1991:
Same as 90. Again did five hundred or so pitches.

1992:
Moved to America. A turbulent and distracting love affair accompanied by various overuse injuries slowed my climbing a bit, but not enough.

1993:
Climbing came to a grinding halt early this year after a botched recovery following knee surgery. Ah, the virtues of patience...Living in Seattle and environs.

1994:
Barely touched rock. But did a cool 56 day solo sailing trip in a 14' West Wright Potter off the west coast of Canada, mostly as a result of a painful breakup with a woman.

1995:
Got back into the groove after coming to terms with the aches and pains in my body. Moved to Moab late in the year.

1996:
This year the interest in climbing again vaned after thrashing up Indian Creek splitters for the past 10 months. Just not enough variation to keep the spark.

1997:
No climbing.

1998:
No climbing.

1999:
Moved from Moabs monotonous lasercut cracks to Bishop and immidiately got the passion again.

2000:
On the rocks regularly, but after getting a kid and a mortgage I'm faced with another one of lifes great challenges: Mainstream (family) obligations.
I reluctantly acknowledged that the travelling climbing exsistence of bygone years might be off for a forseeable future.

2001:
Weekend warrior struggling with the fact that the bi weekly cragging or peakbagging outing is the extent of my adventuring.

2002:
As 2001.

2003:
As 2002.

2004:
Finally managed a high level of climbing activity (even for a dad in the forties) with numerous backcountry climbs in addition to weekly cragging. Back to peak shape, which is 5.9, with the occasional ten lead. This renewed zest was the motivation for creating fivenineclimber.

 


Climbing Resume

The climbs listed below are not meant as an ego boosting tirade of accomplishments (though it probably contains a gram or so of such), but mostly as a sort of validation of the info I present on fivenineclimber.com. Also if you see some obscure route here that you've been wondering about, feel free to email.

An incomplete compilation of
notable routes:

Kullaberg:
Svensker Ruten

Wilder Kaiser:
?

Piz Ciaveces:
Via Micheluzzi

Third Sella Tower
Via ?

Marmolada:
North face

Aig du Chardonnet:
North Pillar, winter ascent

Mont Blanc de Tacul:
Gabarrou/Albinioni, winter ascent

Mont Blanc de Tacul:
Couloir de Diable, winter ascent

Aiguille de Grand Charmoz:
Cordier Pillar

Les Courtes:
Voie Suisse, winter ascent

Aiguille de Midi:
Frendo Spur

Aiguille de Pelerins:
Les Maillon Manquant

Aig. de Blaitiere:
Williamine Dada

Eldorado Wand:
Motorhead

Hurrungane:
Traverse of Styggedals Ryggen

Utby:
Tuborg

Indian Creek:
Super Crack

El Cap:
Nose, Salathe, Zodiac, Dihedral, Muir.

Nepal Himalayas:
Ama Dablam, attempt.
Imja Tse (Island Peak)

Devils Tower:
El Matador

Needles:
Thin Ice

Lover's Leap:
Hospital Corner

Tahquitz:
Super Pooper

Fairview Dome:
Lucky Streaks

Looking Glass Rock:
Cornflake Crack

Middle Cathedral Rock:
Direct North Buttress (DNB)

Highrt Cathedral Rock
Northeast Buttress

Elephant Rock:
Hotline

Glacier Point Apron:
Mr. Natural

Hornaksla:
Nirvana

Temple Crag:
Moon Goddess Arete

Mt Goode:
North Pillar

Wheeler Crest:
Smokestack

Cloud Tower:
Crimson Chrysalis

Index:
Godzilla

Val di Mello:
La Luna Nascente
Kundalini

Cathedral Peak, Pasayten Wilderness:
South East Buttress

Snow Creek Wall:
Outer Space