nutcracker, .9, 5 pitches
The quintessential valley climb. Although often crowded, polished slick and not too steep in places, it is still a first class outing. The .9 finger crack variation to the first pitch is especially smooth, but worthwhile. Higher up is a tricky, somewhat runout mantle/bulge, notorious for creating a bottleneck situation, and certainly not to be taken lightly.

prune, .10-
Worthless sandbag.

bummer, .10
lazybum, .10
jamcrack route, .9
These three routes on Sunnyside Bench are a good place to start a Yosemite trip.

honor thy father, .10
leisure time, .10
little wing, .10+
These three very difficult routes are not a good place to start a Yosemite trip. At least not for fivenineclimber.

east buttress el cap, .10, 12 pitches
Definitely classic. Many good events will unfold along the way, the most memorable being that knob affair up high.

rixon's pinnacle, west face, .10, 5 pitches
Rock fall potential might rule out this excellent route these days. Anyhow, the crux traverse is easily aided, leaving you with plenty of fine crack adventures in the .9 realm.

crest jewel, .10-, 10 pitches
This slab hike is not one of my favorites. I found it overrated and a tad bit boring despite all the nice write ups in various publications. But there's world class views all the way up and it ends on a prominent summit on the Valley rim. The climbing is safe and straight forward but totally devoid of surprises. Every difficult passage is generously equipped with good bolts where you need them, although the easy stretches are somewhat run out. What the route lacks in adventure is repaid in sizeable doses on the approach and descent.

coonyard pinnacle, .9, 5 pitches
What memorable slab climbing you didn't find on Crest Jewel, is readily available here. This is old school. The bolts are not copious and the rating is stiff. The climbing is committing. And the route is basically roadside.

chouinard crack, .7, 2 pitches

synapse collapse, .10-

shuttle madness, .9

central pillar of frenzy, .9, 5 pitches (or more)
Awkward and insecure climbing on the cruxy first pitch leads to a sustained finger crack. One of the best .9 pitches in the Valley. The rest never again attains such quality, but there's still some fine climbing to be had on this wildly popular route.

reed's direct, .10-, 2 pitches
Not the straightforward sinker jam route that the first pitch alludes to. And things get wide up there, too.

lunatic fringe, .10

outer limits, .10-
This is without question the finest handcrack in the Valley. Steep and practically without any rests, it goes on seemingly forever. When I did it in 1989, it was one of the proudest onsights of my early climbing days. The second pitch starts out just as fine, but quickly enters the dark side.

beverly's tower, .10-
Good climbing without too many surprises.

wheat thin, .10, picture

butter fingers, .11-, picture

adrenaline, .11

serenity crack, .10+ See here

catchy, .10+

catchy corner, .11-

meat grinder, .10, 2 pitches
Ahh, Yosemite Valley in a nutshell. Had the sharp end on the crux pitch, and was severely beat up afterwards.

commitment, .9, 3 pitches

lost arrow spire, rim route, A1, 3 pitches
Non-descript climbing leads to that notorious tyrolean. Has to be on any serious adventurers ticklist.

right side of the folly, .10+, 6 pitches
Brilliant, as you probably know. The main corner is super sustained, but save the first pitch every rope length is high quality. Unfortunately some serious rock fall has put this area off limits for the next millennium or so.

gripper, .10, 3 pitches
At one point in my varied career this fine route was my hardest onsight. Don't forget the all-out jam session on pitch three, if you're into clean crack climbing.

midterm, .10
Slick and polished holdless chimney to desperate OW to fist crux.

sons of yesterday, .10-, 5 pitches See here

dr. feelgood, .10+
Thin and poorly protected optional start to Mr. Natural.

mr. natural, .10 See here

son of sam, .9

stone groove, .10
More classic than it seems.

church bowl tree, .10
Slick as snot, and as such to be avoided.

book of revelations, .10

direct north buttress (DNB), .10, 17 pitches
This is a serious route with several built-in options for getting in trouble, unless you're have Potteresque abilities. As is usual with this sort of outings, the humble rating expresses little about what's in store. We did the route in 10 hours, with very few mishaps besides some confusion about the general layout in the neighborhood of pitch 9, and my partners sudden diarrhea near the top. I mostly contribute our success to a fair amount of luck pared with lots of experience on complex terrain. It is not unusual for parties to bivvy en route or on the long and difficult descent.
Before embarking on an adventure like this, it might be a good idea to figure out if pure climbing quality is more important than having an epic, on-the-edge experience. Because the DNB contain very little so called clean and esthetic climbing. No classic Yosemite splitters. No soaring dihedrals. Instead there's lots of wandering, vegetated face climbing on slopers and polished rock with sometimes marginal pro. Off course to many the sum total of negotiating so many demanding pitches in a row, followed by a complex descent, all under time pressure, is far better than doing a couple of Cookie routes.

sherrie's crack, .10
Personal favorite. Lots of cranker fingerlocks down low, followed by insecure but easier thin hands.

knob job, .10

through of justice, .10

lemon, .8

crack a-go-go, .11
Another one of the many Cookie test pieces. Hard for a poor fivenineclimber, even back in the good old days. Crux right off the deck.Two hangs, at least.

transistor sister, .10

strange energy, .10

maxine's wall, .10-
Might have a place in history, but it most be a small one.

hotline, .10, A0, 5 pitches
Went on this wild climb with a German climber from the Camp 4 scene, that really wanted to flash the .12 crux traverse. Where his obsession to climb such an obscure route came from, I never really figured out, and he didn't achieve his goal either. Those 50' of .11+ thin hands and other weirdness right before the traverse took the steam out the attempt. And the presence of a fat bundle of tad to conveniently swing on, probably was too much of a temptation. The rest of this Kauk/Bachar creation from the seventies was full of awesome passages, of which the 3rd pitch was the most memorable. It might be the single finest hand crack in the Valley that I've lead, with more than 130' of straight-in jamming from an early 2" crux to relentless plugging. Sort of like JoJo, but better and with less wide stuff. High up is an ugly looking bottomless squeeze full of moss and drips, that thwarted our progress to the elusive summit itself. If you find yourself in a similar predicament, there's a handy rap anchor out right. Or used to be. Maybe this all collapsed in a recent rock fall?

positively 4th street, .9, 2 pitches

guiding lightweight, .10-
lightweight guides, .10-
These two excellent thin cracks have been removed from the guidebooks because of their very public location in the Lower Yosemite Falls Amphitheatre. That doesn't mean they are out of bounds, I understand.

ten years after, .10+
Very hard, even to follow. Which is the only way I've been acquainted with this route.

new diversions, .10-
Big knobs here, but well spaced.

little john, left side, .8

y crack, .10-
Good one to do when most of the real classics have been ticked off.

lenna's lieback, .9
Fun but greasy. Most climbed fivenine crack in the Valley?

the prow, first pitch, .10-
Reasonable thin fingers and other classic stuff. Side by side with jo-jo.

jo-jo, .10
Real good straight sided jamming that goes on forever in the classic idiom: Thin hands to, a long 100' later, menacing OW.

desperate straights, .10-
What was Rick Sylvester thinking, rating that first pitch 5.9? Well, it was back in the 70's, in that era of bullet proof hardmen and-women.

fire fingers, .10

east butt, middle, .9 A0, 11 pitches
How this somewhat mediocre route earned a chapter in the venerable 50 Classic Climbs in North America is a mystery to me.

aid crack, swan slab, .10 A0, 2 pitches
If you don't mind onsighting slippery weirdness with hundreds of spectators, this one could work out OK.

waverly wafer, .10, 2 pitches picture

the surprise, finger crack var., .10-, 4 pitches
I seem to remember this one to be really good? I lead the crux on sight it says in my notes, so it can't be too bad.

higher cathedral spire, reg route, .9, 5 pitches
Not so much for the climbing, as for the cool summit.

braille book, .8, 7 pitches
Lots of fun. Almost like a Red Rocks route.

higher cathedral rock, NE butt, .9++, 12 pitches
This could well be the best 'moderate' multipitch free climb in Yosemite. 'Moderate' should be taken with a grain of salt, though. It contains lots of everything, from thin and delicate to wide and strenuous. Crux after crux is thrown at you, until things get kinda nebulous, and a bit more serious near the top. We experienced some problems interpreting the topo up there, and found the chosen route a little scary.