Here's is my all time Top 5 for the valley.

These are climbs where I have led my share of the pitches, and some of them I've done several times.

Not presented in order of quality. They are all unique; short, really long, committing, casual. No one is better than the other, but they represents to me some of the best of Yosemite, that can be done without extreme cranking strength.

1:Serenity Crack - Sons of Yesterday, .10+
A better selection of doable, high quality fiveten crack climbing would be hard to find. Except for the short crux on the third pitch of Serenity Crack, the whole thing is barely harder than some fivenines that comes to mind. It is interesting to observe how the smooth, fine grained granite of the lower route gives way to steeper, more featured and rougher rock on SOY. Foot smears and smooth pin scars are suddenly exchanged with faceholds and gritty jams. The finest climbing on the whole thing is the first real pitch on SOY, a beautiful finger crack with a baffling face crux near the end.

2:Salathe Wall, .10, C2
The best route I've done, anywhere. Wait for upcoming article.

3:NE Buttress on Higher Cathedral Rock, .9(plus)
Don't underestimate this one. Definitely get in shape for some old school fivenine crack climbing before starting out, and do start out early.

4:Mr. Natural, .10
When it comes to finding the very finest single pitch I've been on in the Valley, Mr Natural gets the first place. Most of my climbing here has been on long routes where the overall feel is far more powerful than the pure aesthetic of an isolated pitch, so undoubtedly there's even better stuff around. But leading Mr. Natural, first time with a hang and later clean, was amazing. Sadly, I think the area received some battering in the massive rockfalls recently. Did this route survive?

5:Muir Wall, .9, A3 Also see here
Hanging out, literally, on a Yosemite wall doesn't get any better than this. Without the demanding off widths of Salathe and all the free climbing exchanged with moderate nailing and stellar clean aid, this outing is pure enjoyment. There's exposure, long splitters, awesome bivvies, all without ever getting too extreme.