This sizeable rock in the San Jacinto range benefits from a significantly higher altitude than the surrounding desert areas, making it comfortable when JT has 110 degree weather and rattlesnakes under every rock.

You'll find quality routes from 5.4 to 5.11 and beyond, with so many interesting lines in the realm of fivenineclimbers ability that this has become one of our favorite destinations. The routes are generally multi pitch affairs up to maybe 7 or 8 pitches on the tallest section of the North Face, and are characterized by fine grained, textured granite, discontinuous crack and flake systems, and involved route finding. Mostly there's a striking absence of fixed gear, both mid pitch and at the belays.

At Tahquitz the climbing history goes back maybe further than anywhere else on the West Coast. Chuck Wilts and his gang of early hard men put up highly technical ascents way back in the thirties, which for this continent is quite early. Royal Robbins established the first North American 5.9 in 1952, with the ultra classic
Open Book, even though it was not properly rated until the local climbers came up with the now universal YDS rating system in '56. In other words, Tahquitz is full of Californian climbing lore and history, with countless anecdotes attached to each route.

Quick logistics:
The approach is steep, way steep, and takes 40 minutes or so.
Tahquitz has a big north face, a smaller and more complex west side, and a compact, sunny south side. Climbing is possible year round, with the obvious seasonal limitations enforced by aspect and weather conditions.
A standard rack of tcu's, cams and nuts will suffice for all routes listed here, except Open Book which requires some large cams. Bring lots of long runners for the many wandering pitches.
Camping is not officially allowed on the large parking complex, called Humber Park, at the end of the road. But if you're low key and sleep in your vehicle for only a night or two it might just be alright. 'Real' camping is 20 minutes away.
Simple conveniences are available in Idyllwild, the village at the base of the cliff. Also there is the local climbing store Nomad Ventures, of Joshua Tree fame, http://www.joshuatreevillage.com/515/nv.htm
The area guidebook is one of those generic looking Falcon jobbies by Gaines and Vogel and will set you back $25.00. Despite being under the rule of Falcons homogenized layout the authors have managed to create a fine book, with lots of emphasis on history.
Here's a good site from someone who's climbed in the area for 25 years:
http://www.sierraphotography.com/tahquitz/tahquitz.htm