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2008

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La Cierta Edad,
5.10-, 6 pitches
Icebox Canyon,
Red Rocks, Nevada


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This semi obscure route was first presented to us by Joanne Urioste, who also did the first ascent with George, her friend and former husband. She recommended it as a good traditional adventure up steep cracks, which was precisely what we found.
This is certainly a great route. Not of awesome classic status, but fully worthwhile if you're into old school crackclimbing.
For reasons undeclared, Todd Swain calls Cierta for "Strawberry Schubert" in his book.

A short diatribe about the descent:
The ASCA had been there before us. Their work was top notch, as is customary, with painted and camouflaged double bolt stations, and the old holes neatly backfilled. Alas, on this route these convenient anchors only lasted to the belay under the crux pitch, after which we were left with old bedframe hangers and other suspicious hardware. Furthermore, the books tell us to descent via Unfinished Symphony, on very old and crummy anchors. The best thing to do is this: Climb to the top of the black corner, pitch 6, as described in Joanne's supplement. Step over to the old but reasonably safe anchor on the right and make a very long, exposed rappel (on 60m ropes only, and do tie knots on the ends) to the last ASCA bolts below the crux. From here rap the route of ascent.

 
 
 

The Refrigerator Wall in Icebox Canyon, with the route La Cierta Edad marked. The prominent water streak to the left of the central section is the infamous Breakaway, and to the right is the OW corner system of Unfinished Symphony.