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Jubilant
Song , 5.9, 8 pitches
Windy Peak, Red Rocks, Nevada |
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The
long traverse on Jubilant Song's 4th lead. This is in a magnificent
setting
under a huge roof, with lots of exposure underfoot and tenuous
moves.
Albeit sunny, this day in March 2006 was bitterly cold and
windy. Typical high desert spring conditions.
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For
years I was only peripherally interested in Jubilant
Song.
We had noticed it was rated 'only' 5.7 in some guides.
In other words, after the big effort put up to bag
it, you would still end up with very few prestige
points. Naturally, after harboring such a piss arrogant
attitude, one will eventually be humbled, ruthlessly.
Biggest clue: It is a Joe Herbst route. Those seldom
come easy. Remember that and one's stay in Red Rocks
will be more pleasant.
Also, there's some mention of water runnels, even
smooth ones, in the guidebook. This is another experience
that often presents the involved party with hardships.
So, enough excuses. In addition to having some really
fine climbing, we also found more than one stretch
of rather severe moves, sometimes with spartan pro.
Whether this observation is due to my faltering
face climbing skills or the true sandbag nature
of a Herbst route, is for you to discover. |
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Pitch one
and two follow a long crack in a shallow corner, dealing
with various awkward cruxes along the way. The climbing
here is more interesting and harder than it first appear.
Also shown is the latter part of the almost two hour
long hike to the base.
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| The big south face
of Windy Peak with Jubilant Song marked. The vast territory
to the right is home to a host of other routes, with at least
one more classic. |
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