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  Ginger Cracks, 5.9, 7 pitches
Why the Chrysalification?
 

This route has long been touted as a more traditional and committing alternative to nearby Crimson Chrysalis.
First climbed by Mark Moore and Lars Holbek in 1977, Ginger Cracks is indeed a steep and interesting route, albeit a bit less exciting than it used to be, due to recent changes in the fixed pro department.
So, we had heard over the years that the difficult crux pitch sported the route's solitary bolt. We knew it easily could be an original bent and twisted spinner. Or maybe somebody had carefully replaced it with a new one, while still preserving the adventurous nature of Matt and Lars' FA.
Alas, the first hint that times have changed came as we clipped into a shining new Fixe set-up at the first belay. Then a bolt appeared in the middle of the second lead. Odd. There was abundant natural gear in the vicinity. More convenient rap anchors ensued.
On the fabled crux pitch we found two new bolts low down, just to the left of a 2" crack. Then another one next to several small stopper placements, and finally what we assumed was the original hole, since the otherwise new and shiny 3/8" bolt had a rusty hanger. At the end, more belay bolts.
I'm as tired of griping about fixed anchor ethics as you probably are, so enough said. All you get here is this terse description of Ginger Cracks current low.

It should be said though that the upper section beyond the crux lead is an altogether different cup of tea. Here the fixed metal is exchanged with involved routefinding and a most interesting final stretch of climbing before the foreboding Gunsight.


Images

First pitch

Second pitch

Fourth crux pitch

Ginger Buttress and the massive hulk of Rainbow Mountain. The approximate lay of Ginger Cracks is shown. Getting back home from the Gunsight at the top of route involves rappelling and down scrambling into the hanging garden above the prominent waterstreak at left center. From here you do three long raps down Power Failure to the right of the streak.