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This route has long
been touted as a more traditional and committing alternative
to nearby Crimson Chrysalis.
First climbed by Mark Moore and Lars Holbek in 1977, Ginger
Cracks is indeed a steep and interesting route, albeit a bit
less exciting than it used to be, due to recent changes in
the fixed pro department.
So, we had heard over the years that the difficult crux pitch
sported the route's solitary bolt. We knew it easily could
be an original bent and twisted spinner. Or maybe somebody
had carefully replaced it with a new one, while still preserving
the adventurous nature of Matt and Lars' FA.
Alas, the first hint that times have changed came as we clipped
into a shining new Fixe set-up at the first belay. Then a
bolt appeared in the middle of the second lead. Odd. There
was abundant natural gear in the vicinity. More convenient
rap anchors ensued.
On the fabled crux pitch we found two new bolts low down,
just to the left of a 2" crack. Then another one next
to several small stopper placements, and finally what we assumed
was the original hole, since the otherwise new and shiny 3/8"
bolt had a rusty hanger. At the end, more belay bolts.
I'm as tired of griping about fixed anchor ethics as you probably
are, so enough said. All you get here is this terse description
of Ginger Cracks current low.
It should be said though that the upper section beyond the
crux lead is an altogether different cup of tea. Here the
fixed metal is exchanged with involved routefinding and a
most interesting final stretch of climbing before the foreboding
Gunsight.
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