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2008

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Frigid Air Buttress  
Here I am, inside the clean, moderate chimney that can be seen in the lower half of the second picture on this page.  
 
 

This is the middle section of Frigid Air, which has some of the best climbing on a route full of excellent stuff.

The notorious OW, that initially shut down Joe Herbst on the first attempt back in the seventies is the slightly curving crack on the light colored face up in the sun. Eventually Joe and Larry Hamilton returned, armed with even more Hexes, the gear of choice in those days. The crack is quite the flare and would take a fair amount of fiddling to get a Hex seated. Hardmen.

In an attempt at preserving the spirit of adventure, we will not disclose further beta here. Just look at the picture and that inviting crack line, and think of Joe and Larry and your rack of cams and how so many routes get completely dissected on the web and elsewhere, and how bolts get added and, finally, that this route is like it was, still to this day.

 

 
More chimneys. These slots here are really entertaining. Possibly the single hardest move on the entire climb is in that lower one, while exiting the upper squeeze is spooky. Joanne writes in the Red Book that it would be prudent to have the thinnest member of your party lead this pitch!! But if none of you fit in, don't despair, there's a better way.  
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