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2008

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  Frigid Air Buttress, 5.9+, 10 pitches
 
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First section

The Chimneys

Last Pitches

 
The Frigid Air Buttress, with the classic Herbst/Hamilton route marked.
 
 


The FA Buttress sits unfavorably beneath the towering Bridge Mountain, and is encumbered with a wide base and no obvious, soaring lines. It appears squat and barely more than a few pitches tall, if you would bother at all. This is not good. Classic routes in my book will both look and feel like five star climbs.

But let's return to Frigid Air, a route that does not stick to the rules of esthetics. It is a great route. Far longer than it looks. We counted 10 pitches. There's a bunch of distinct sections, spanning the gamut from chimneys over OW to a quite remarkable finger crack up there near the top. And so on. All the required ingredients for a fine day is what you'll find.

And here's the true attraction: The route is pristine. Herbst et al placed one manky bolt on the FA, but you won't see it unless you know where it is, and you don't need it. So, besides that detail (and the anchor on top of pitch one) there's nothing fixed up there. Beautiful adventure without modern conveniences. As Larry Hamilton, first ascensionist, wrote in a recent post on a climbing forum:
'I'm pleased to hear that the Frigid Air Buttress has aged with grace'