Get
up early. This one works even in December, all you need is
sun. All the climbs are 5.9 trad routes, and not too bad for
the grade. There's enough to do until lunch, after which other
options of sun and warmth will surface.
Everything is accessed from the Echo Cove parking lot. Rush
over to Little Rock Candy Mountain, and find M&M's
Plain on the east face.
Ease of access makes up for a few shortcomings, such as lengths
and rock quality. It is nevertheless a fine route in the traditional
spirit of JT cracks: Flared, thin, steep, with jugs emerging
right when things otherwise would get desperate.
Safe back at the base after rappelling
off the two loose bolts on the summit, embark on the short
stroll over to the east face of Echo Rock, and find the little
detached formation containing Finger
Food. The route is rapidly
getting in the shade, but with an early enough start, at least
the belayer will basking in the sun. If someone held a gun
to my head ordering me to solo a fivenine, this would be it.
The route is short, with the main difficulties at mid heights,
and it start right from the sandy desert floor. It is also
a fabulous climb.
Walk off and, in fact, continue walking right around the corner
to the warm heaven of Pope's Crack
and environ. No rush now, since this fine crack route is in
the sun all day, and the next route again will get balmier
as the day wears on. On Pope's,
good crack climbing technique and a calm attitude can turn
this otherwise awkward and pumpy route into a joy ride. Up
higher are a variety of obstacles. Make sure to have a few
long runners.
Now back to Little Rock Candy
Mountain. On the west side is Sugar
Daddy, which by now is
rapidly approaching full sun. Many times in JT the
cracks start out thin or non-existing, making it cruxy and
unprotected to get going. With a flat sandy landing this is
less of a problem, but here on Sugar
Daddy the highball injury potential is real, so watch
out. The real crux follows shortly thereafter, but the gear
is in place by then. Again rap off the sketchy anchor and
go to lunch.
More winter ideas to follow...
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