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Guidebook?
See bottom of this page
Why is this place so amazing? What is it? The rock is good,
very good actually, but not exceptional, and can certainly
be as chossy as anywhere. There's no huge faces with impressive
multi pitch lines, of the kind that dreams are made of.
It is typically too cold or too damn hot. JT is seldom in
the mags anymore, since the ban on powerdrilling sent Leavitt
et al out to the Virgin and points beyond. Most aspects of
JT seem average and unspectacular, maybe except the claim
that there's more routes here than any other climbing area.
I guess the allure is not in one single facet. It could be
the light, the smell, the colors. The desert air (albeit seriously
threathened by the rapid encroachment of humanity) and amazing
night sky also add points.
There's just something about the place that draws me in. It
doesn't matter whether I'm struggling up Touch n'Go for the
umpteenth time or wandering along in the sandy washes looking
for obscure routes. |
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Routes
With short beta on quality and such
Images
A collection of old and new
20
favourite JT climbs This
list contains some of the best climbs on the planet.
Circuits
Walls with multiple crack
climbs Special
Climbs Events centered
around JT routes Winter
Morning Set-up It's
cold, windy and you're done with breakfast 5.9
Cracks Classics in
the classic grade |
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| Typical JT route:
Short, intense and high quality. Unknown climber and casual
belayer on Exorcist, .10-, March 1989 |
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Every
climbing area need good guidebooks. In a place like JT, with
well over 5000 routes, it becomes paramount.
Randy Vogel and his high profile Falcon Guides are the most
often used source. These big books does the job fine for the
casual visitor.
But there is an alternative. Local Alan
Bartlett has for years been publishing a set of small, unasuming
guides, with handdrawn topos and maps, covering the Park.
Bartlett's fine sense of the territory makes it very easy
finding the right cliff in remote areas, or locating a climb
on a rock formation. His ratings and short descriptions are
dead-on, and every route has FA information.
These are the books I have used for years, and despite their
simple looks are the ones to have.
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