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Southwest
Rib, 5.8-.10, 5-6 pitches
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back
to wa pass |
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This route on South Early Winter
Spire is becoming very popular after several guidebook write-ups,
so why not further exploit it with a comprehensive feature
here? We started at the very base of the rib and climbed a
long, awkward pitch to reach the start of the prominent crack
of the true first pitch. It seemed like a good idea. It gives
you more climbing, is more direct and avoids weaving around
on treed ledges.
The South West Rib is made up
of a series of distinct pitches, all with totally different
challenges. After the optional starting pitch described above
there is a left leaning 80' fist/hand crack clearly visible
from the approach. This is followed by either an easy corner;
a supposedly .9 lieback (didn't look very inspiring); or what
Becky calls a .10+ finger crack. |
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We
did the finger crack despite the intimidating rating, which
is far beyond fivenineclimber's ability. What we found, and
on sighted, was a brilliant .10a pitch with good pro and stellar
rock.
The temptation will be to triumphantly
set up belay immediately after this test piece, but it is
safer to continue past the long, somewhat runout slab (rather
scary) to below the infamous Bear Hug Pitch. These side-by-side
wide cracks are hard looking and impossible to protect beyond
the first few feet, but surprisingly easy, once established
in them.
The route now follow the low
angle arete to the notch before the true summit, via some
odd and runout sections that can pose unexpected challenges.
Descent via South
Arete |
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Morning alpenglow on the sheer
south east face of SEWS |
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Spire Gully from
the hairpin on Highway 20 affords an easy, direct approach opportunity
in early season when the snow is still there, hard and crisp.
After climbing the glissade back to the car is another bonus. |
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SEWS from the
top of Spire Gully. Our route is the pronouncd buttress on
the shady west face, left of the snow patch.
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| The optional 5.10
crux pitch, here with Joe Sprauer in the thick of it. |
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| Joe beneath the
Bearhug cracks. |
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| More
solid rock and blue skies up higher |
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