vantage

Last
update:
April,
2008

WARNING


Rock
crag list

red rocks

yosemite
joshua tree
tahquitz
NW cragging
scandinavia
worst crag
local crag
wa pass
pasayten



Boatbuilding
home
boats for sale

People
jesper ritzau
sally
craig delbrook
   
 

South Arete,
4th class with a couple of 5.4 moves, 400'

back to wa pass

The descent route off the South Spire and a popular first climb in the region. After a surprisingly stout first move, some less interesting stretches takes you into the big chimney, capped by a roof. Another memorable sequence negotiates this overhang, followed by enjoyable srambling and the occasional knife edge arete. Soon the summit of the highest spire in the group is reached.
As a descent route after summiting from other climbs you should find it relatively straight forward. The wear marks and obvious lay of the route makes it a simple down climb until the optional two rappels at the bottom. Time: less than an hour.

 
     
  Sonja posing under the route after climbing Spire Gully in early morning of this May day in 2007. The South Arete looks clean and snow free from this vantage point, yet we encountered somewhat challenging conditions.

   
 

The main difficulties behind us, we're faced with enjoyable snow and mixed climbing on the upper spire. The crux moves at the beginning was tough this day, with icy rock and friction moves in big boots. Also the chimney was a dripping icicle, so we found an interesting, yet committing variation to the climbers right.


 
 

The upper part of the arete with the approaches to Kangaroo Pass spread out under us

 

 

Left:
Sonja leading the summit pitch

Below:
Finally a picture from drier times. Joe Sprauer descending the South Arete after climbing another route