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Paisano
Pinnacle, Regular Route, 5.8, 7 pitches
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back
to wa pass |
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The immense west
aspect of the Silver Star Massif, with the Wine Spires on the
left and Paisano Pinnacle as the slender little tower leaning
against Burgundy. |
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Very fine rock quality and stellar climbing
characterize this worthwhile, but seldom done route.
Most guidebooks are rather brief in their treatment of Paisano,
so a condensed route description seems in order:
Start in an obvious notch on the long west trending arete. A crack
behind some trees quickly becomes rather difficult, signaling that
you're on the right route. Easy climbing leads to a short, good
looking crack, clearly visible from the start. After that you'll
eventually end up on a fine ledge below the crux double cracks and
dihedral. At the top of this steep section is the key downward traverse
to a small whitebark pine. From here we headed straight up towards
an obvious overhang, but face climbed right to easier ground after
40'. A long stretch of spectacular arete climbing, with numerous
little cruxes, comes next, until the final fun but exposed ramp
to the summit. Now you can scramble down to a couple of rappels,
or continue on the last 5
pitches of.... |
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Closing in on
the base of the pinnacle via a steep snow traverse with an
attention getting sweep into boulders and choss way down there.
We roped up, I believe.
The approach from the car took maybe 3 hrs or slightly less.
A long haul, either way. |
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is the first pitch as viewed from the little notch where the
climbing start. |
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Joe Sprauer at comfy
and spacious belay at the base of the thin set of crux cracks,
which felt like 5.8 for sure. This next rope length ends on
a less secure stance, in the shadows of the north side of the
pinnacle. There, at the end of a narrow cat walk is an exposed
sloping dish for the belay. |
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The pitch starting
from the ominous belay after the crux twin cracks. |
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| More
good climbing |
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