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Becky Route, 5.6, 3-5 pitches, Liberty Bell

back to wa pass

Quite good climbing, albeit the pitches are short and the route wildly popular. The approach is disproportionately long compared to the climbing part, and can, in early provide the crux of the day for anyone not used to steep neve.

The rock climbing crux, however, is supposed to be that short, polished wall near the top. It has no gear but starts from a sandy hole without exposure of any kind. Basically a very safe boulder problem. In fact you have to downclimb it too, possibly unroped, to get to the first rap anchor.

The route finding is not entirely straight forward even if you can locate the hidden beginning.

So for the benefit of the masses, here's a few pointers, below the picture:

 
Sonja near the top of the sustained difficulties on this late spring ascent, 2007

Near the top of the sandy, gravelly (or snowy) approach gully are a series of relatively solid ledges on the left side. This is the staging area for the Becky Route. A tricky looking ramp-thing leaves this area to the left around an exposed corner to the hidden chimney of the first pitch. All but the most timid should be able to solo this feature to a good belay alcove at the base of aforementioned chimney.

Go up this initially steep, somewhat loose slot for half a rope length to a section of pines on good ledges. Easy ground continues up along the base of the steep wall, but, alas, this is NOT the route. Instead look up and left into the crux blocky overhang and crack. Clean rock and more than a few fixed runners mark the route.

At top of the strenuous climbing, the terrain suddenly becomes very low angle. Follow these mellow features up and right, past several fixed pitons, to the base of a gnarly looking OW. Avoid this via a leftward hand traverse of some 6-8', then shoot back right to the top of the OW. A slabby, balancy undercling affair goes up and right to the end of the hard climbing.

So, continue up along the broad spine of the mountain for several hundred feet. Along the way is a 15' tall, totally unprotected boulder move. No exposure and a safe landing makes this more casual than it seems.

Soon after the summit is reached.

The descent is 2 single rope rappels, accessed via a treed bowl down and left from the boulder problem. Downclimb from the summit to here, or do an unnecesssary and exposed rappel from near the topout.